Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Yangtze River Trip

04/03/2015   The first weekend in April was the Qingming holiday (or Tomb Sweeping Day), kind of like our Memorial Day.  The Chinese tend their ancestor’s graves, leave wreaths and fruit offerings, burn fake paper money and set off firecrackers at the tombs.  We went with the BYU teachers group on a cruise down the Yangtze River, the longest river in China, the third longest river in the world.   BTW the Chinese don’t call it by that name and my students didn't know what I was talking about.  Some English person gave it that name and it stuck in Western countries.

On Friday we took a high speed train (first class seats – otherwise you might end up sitting on a bucket) to the city called Chongqing.  The train was fabulous – cruising speed of 200 km/h, very smooth ride.  A city of 30 million people, it claims to be the world’s largest metropolitan region.  Along the way we saw beautiful farms on rolling hills out the train windows.
 
High Speed Train

Countryside Farms

The Grand City Hall

We thought the city itself was beautiful.  Chongqing was also the capital of China for a long time before Peking, so it has a lot of history.  It has the river running through the middle of it and is set on hills, kind of like San Francisco.  It was very hot there already and is nicked named the furnace of China.  We were supposed to meet up with the rest of the BYU teachers who flew there earlier and took a side trip that morning.  But their bus was late getting to our rendezvous point and we spent about 3 hours outside in the heat waiting for them to arrive.  Apparently taking that elderly group is like trying to herd cats, plus too many women kept wanting to stop and shop and taking longer than planned for.  And I think one got lost and another fell and hurt herself when getting off the bus.
So we got to see a little bit of the Museum of the Three Gorges about how the dam on the river was thought of, planned for and built.  It also had propaganda displays about how the people (more than one million of them) were so happy to be displaced from their ancestral homes when the water filled up behind the dam.  It was too late for us to tour the Grand City Hall but we saw it from across the street and it looked pretty impressive.

Next stop was the Flying Tiger’s Museum.  It’s about the American volunteer group of fighter pilots in WWII who helped the Chinese fight the Japanese.  Apparently the old city of Chongqing (then called Chungking) was a major target for the Japanese because of the river.  And they are still grateful to us.  

Afterwards we headed to their uptown area similar to Times Square in NYC.  It was big and clean and pretty, full of high end stores.  We kept comparing it to what we don’t see in Chengdu.  We had a typical Chinese dinner.  (We are so looking forward to a typical American dinner!)
  
After dinner we were taken to the river and boarded our river cruise ship, the President #8.  It is advertised as a 5 star vessel – (maybe that is a bit generous).  It held 500 passengers.  Of course we had to compare it to cruise ships we've been on in America.  On this one each stateroom had a balcony, and the room and the bathroom were larger than what we have paid for in the US.  But you had to pay extra to use the small gym, the indoor pool, and to watch a movie.  

Breakfast and lunch were buffet, but only one seating time each.  There were choices of western style food mixed in with Chinese.  But when it was gone, it was gone; none of that 24 hour thing we are used to on US cruises.  Dinner was strictly set menu Chinese food.  And the evening entertainment?  Pretty lame. 

04/04/2015   We cruised all night to get to the next stop.  Today was hot and sunny.  The morning’s excursion was to Fengdu Ghost City.  We thought that maybe it referred to an old city drowned by the dammed up river.  Instead it is a large complex of shrines, temples and monasteries dedicated to the afterlife located on top of a mountain.  People visited there but no one actually ever lived there.  After the building of the Three Gorges Dam and the rising of the water level of the river more than 100 meters, it became separated from the city of Fengdu down below, which was rebuilt higher up the mountainside when the government relocated the people.

During lunch we continued down the river and stopped to get off and see the Shi Bao Zhai Pagoda.  It is a wooden 9 level wedding cake looking (Chinese style) structure seemingly glued on to a cliff side.  Basically it is a covered staircase for people to climb up.  Again it is on the top of mountain, now a small island in the middle of the river, with its village since submerged.  We lined up with the rest of the masses to climb to the top on rickety wooden stairs on the inside.  As shown in the picture, the ships parked side by side.  To get off our boat, we walked through 4 other ships to get to the gangway.  Very efficient and very carefully done.
Fengdu Ghost City

ShiBaoZhai pagoda

Our ship, the fifth on the far right
04/05/2015   Easter Sunday.  Needless to say, it wasn't celebrated on board.  This day was cool and raining.  Quite a contrast from when we started out.  The first shore excursion was Fengjie and the White Emperor City.  The city, now a deserted island, was an important location dating back 2000 years.  It is located at the mouth of the first of the three gorges, Qutang, which is pictured on the back of the ten yuan note.
White Emperor City

Entering Qutang Gorge

Qutang Gorge on back of the 10 yuan bill
After returning to the ship we began our trip into the first gorge, 8 km long.  We were followed by or followed several other ships doing the same thing.  Because of the cloud cover, it was eerily beautiful and quiet.  The valley sides were covered in deep green foliage.  Later we entered the second and very deep gorge, Wu, 45 km long.  It had jagged mountain peaks jutting up through the clouds. The Xiling Gorge was next, at 66 km.  This one was known in the past, before the dam, for treacherous rapids and rocks.  
Tall mountain peaks

Very beautiful mountain peaks
After lunch the ship docked and we boarded a smaller boat.  This took us up the Shennong Stream where we saw karst caves along the side walls and hanging wooden coffins from long ago.  How did they get them up there is still a mystery.  They believe that the higher you bury them, the easier it is for them to get to heaven.  And then we stopped and boarded even smaller water craft, open sampans (14 yards long and two yards wide), that were steered and hand rowed by local peasants.  As more young people go to the cities to work, they are running out of people willing and able to do this work.  The average age of the workers was in the 60’s.  After traveling upstream a ways they demonstrated how boats used to be towed over the difficult parts by men pulling them with ropes.  There were grooves in the rocks where the ropes had rubbed.  The men were poor villagers forced to perform this difficult labor and whipped if they slowed down.  Because they only owned one set of clothes, they pulled the boats naked as it was too hard on their clothes.  Thank goodness they did not demonstrate this part but we did see pictures.
 
Shennong Stream


Hanging coffins in the cracks

A hanging bridge over a smaller stream with a sampan


04/06/2015   After breakfast and repacking, we were put to shore at Zigui and loaded on buses, the beautiful and restful cruise part was over.  From here we were taken to Yichang, where we saw the Three Gorges Dam, the largest hydroelectric dam in the world, holding back the world’s largest reservoir.  It is not without controversy.  Finished in 2009, at least 1.3 million people have been relocated due to their cities, towns and villages being submerged.  But they are all very happy about it.  Due to the rainy conditions we didn't get a really good look at it, but what we saw was massive.  Then we were taken on a two hour bus ride to Wuhan where we boarded planes and flew back to our home cities.  As always, it is such a breath of fresh air to meet with our fellow teachers and swap stories and ideas.  It makes it worth the price gouging we take at the hands of our travel agency.

Friday, April 17, 2015

It's Not All Fun and Games!



I’m afraid someone may get the idea from reading our blog that all we are doing in China is taking trips, seeing new and exotic sites, and generally on a 1 year vacation.  The purpose of this entry is to dispel that idea.

While it is true that we have been on some marvelous trips and have seen some amazing things, we have also been working our tails off.  We want to take advantage while we are here in China of seeing and doing as much as we can since we are so close to the locations.  (Also, to reward ourselves for working so hard.)  But our normal workday is anything but exciting and exotic. 

Let me describe our typical work week from last semester.  I taught 7 different classes; two classes of Sophomore electrical engineering students and 5 classes of Master students.  Anne taught 5 classes; two classes of Soph EE students and 3 classes of PhD students.  Our graduate classes were generally limited to 50 students each, but Anne had one class with 80 PhD students – (because she is such a good teacher, they all wanted to come to her class!)  These are very bright people and we don’t want to short-change them with weak lessons.
View from  the back of the classroom
 We had to prepare three different lessons each week, two for the sophomores and one for the graduate students.  We actually taught the one class of sophomores twice a week – requiring the two lessons for them. The graduate students required a third, different lesson.  (The sophomores had better English skills than the graduates, so we couldn’t recycle undergraduate lessons with them.)  Preparing each lesson took around 10 hours each.  Oh – each class lesson was two hours long.  All of Anne’s classes and 5 of mine were on the new campus.  (3 of my graduate classes were on the old campus.)  We would easily spend 2.5+ hours on the bus round-trip for each day we taught.   Do the math – 30 hours preparation and (for me) 14 hours teaching.  Some of my classes were back-to-back, so I had to go to the new campus twice a week for 5 hours.  We are up to 50 hours so far.

Why does it take 10 hours for preparing each lesson?  Well, for one reason we have no manuals, so we have to find/create all our teaching materials from scratch.  Try doing that with an unstable internet with only “dial-up” speed.  There are some wonderful sites out there, but getting at them is challenging, especially with China’s computer firewall.  We try to prepare PowerPoint presentations to cover the material in the lesson.  This helps those students who may sit at the back of the room and can’t hear very well, or who just can’t understand our spoken English.  Their reading skills are generally better than their speaking skills.

Anne is a very a conscientious teacher and very good at preparing lessons.  I have borrowed several of her lessons; she has only wanted to borrow a couple of mine.  (What does that tell you?!)  But we still modify each other’s lesson to fit the way we present the material and include it with our other materials.

Basically, we find a topic we believe would be of interest to the graduate students and make a lesson out of it.  We review the topic and then get the students to discuss it amongst themselves (“pair, then share”) while we roam around the room, asking questions to stimulate more discussion and noting errors in speaking we can correct either then or at a later time (so as to not cause them to “lose face”).  As the semester went on, we could give immediate feedback rather than wait until another time because the students got to know and trust us.  We may then combine the groups and they have a different audience to discuss the topic with.  Finally, a few will be called on to present their opinions to the class.   
Discussing topic with a small group
 As an example of what we taught – for one lesson I discussed the Ebola virus and what was going on in the world at that time.  I downloaded some audio from the BBC and played it for the class.  Some of the discussion questions were, “Should experimental drugs to control the virus be given to humans?  If yes, who should get the limited drug? Old people who are ready to die anyway, young people who may have the ability to recover with the drug, or random people?  If no to human experimental testing, what other alternatives could be used?  Assume a case of Ebola was reported on campus – What should the school do to respond?  What should the government do?  What would you do?”  We had some very interesting discussions.  I was very surprised in one class where a girl stated that the first thing the government should do, before anything else, was to lock down news reports of the Ebola case.   

Anne had a very successful class where she reviewed the holidays in America, complete with pictures and descriptions of what people did on the holiday, what kind of foods they ate, special clothes they wore, etc.  Then she broke the class into small groups and asked them to invent a new holiday.  What would it celebrate, how would it be celebrated, who would be involved, any special foods or clothes, etc.?  The groups then reported on their new holiday to the class and a vote was taken as to which one was the most popular.  They had a fun time doing that.  The main goal is to get the students to talk in English as much as possible.

Our undergraduate students were a different matter.  Their class size was limited to 18 students because this is a premier program for the university.  In order to advance to the next year in the special program they are in, they must pass the International English Language Testing System (IELTS) with a score of 6 (out of 10).   (It is a joint program with the University of Glasgow – yes – in Scotland.)  We had to create lessons to help them be prepared for the test.  There is a lot of materials on the internet, but see my prior comments about the internet.  (Side note – we found the internet speed was better in the middle of the night, so we often got up during the night to download videos for class.)  Sadly, many of the students are not up to the 6.0 level yet.  The problem is that our class carried no credit or grade so most of the students didn’t bother to show up.  Still, if we had a student or two show up, we had to give them the lesson.  
 
Our kitchen and fridge
When we talked to the couple we replaced from last year, they said most of their time was spent on teaching related activities, similar to what we have found.  Their second biggest use of their time was for procuring and preparing food.  That surprised us, but now we understand why.  We were advised to always wash and peal all our fruits and vegetables.  (That’s one reason we like bananas and citrus fruits – they are always pealed anyway.)  There are a number of street vendors selling fresh fruit/vegetables, so they are not hard to get.  But not one location has everything we like.  For example, we have spoken about the “icky market”.   It is one location about a 15 minute walk away where we go to as a place of last resort.  Other, better locations are farther away.  It is a longer walk, or a 20+ minute bus ride each way there and back.  We have a very small refrigerator, and the fruit/veggies are ripe when purchased.  We have learned that we have to use them in a couple of days or they will spoil.  

Most of China’s bread is generally full of air – think of angel food cake without the sweet – not very substantial or satisfying.  (Trying to spread peanut butter on it totally destroys the bread!)  We have found one bread market that has a good, whole-grain loaf of bread (still small in size).  We get to the store on the 20+ minute bus ride.  Once again, we can’t store much, so we have to frequently go on shopping trips.  

Another reason for not storing much food (besides the small fridge and ripe fruits/veggies) is that the power to apartment frequently is turned off – or the electric breaker for the kitchen frequently trips when we are not here.  If we don’t notice it, or we are away from the apartment, the food will spoil.  (We have learned this from sad experience!)  We have some grocery stores (Walmart, Carrefour) for meat – chicken breasts and pork roasts.  (We use the crock pot we purchased a lot.)  But the produce at these large stores is not as fresh or good as from the street vendors.  We have also discovered various stores throughout Chengdu which offers some types of western food – cheese at one, maple syrup at another, canned beans at a third, etc.  None of them are close, they are very expensive, and we try to plan those visits over the weekend or on our days off.  

We get eggs at one store, bread at another, produce from a variety of stores, meat from a supermarket, etc.  It all takes time.  In other words, we have to shop at least every other day for something.  We try to combine trips, but each excursion can easily take a couple of hours.    Chalk up another 10 hours per week for just buying food.  This doesn’t include the cleaning and preparing meals.

Because of the air pollution in China, our apartment can get very dirty, even when we are not even here.  Dust just settles on everything from the air.  Our windows are not air-tight at all; we always have drafts leaking air.  We can easily spend several hours each week dusting, sweeping and mopping the floor.  We have a wood laminate floor – which shows all the dust bunnies that seem to multiple during the night.  Add to that the kitchenette and bathroomette where rusty pipes leave stains.  Cleaning is a never ending battle.  
Our washing machine
 We have a very small washing machine.  (Still, we are very glad to have a washing machine!)  We have to do a batch of laundry every other day, it seems.  One day lights, two days later we do the darks.  The machine is slow – think 1 hour per batch.  We have no dryer, so everything is hung up on hangers in our utility room to dry.  (We open the windows and I positioned a fan to blow on the clothes.)  That is why we were so excited to be in the fancy apartment after Christmas that had a dryer.  One reason we have to do laundry so often, other than the small washer size – we were limited by space and weight for what we could bring to China on the plane.  Anne is very tired of the old, unattractive clothes she brought and was happy to find some new ones in her size on our trips.  The old clothes are being retired and will be left here when we come home.
Our bathroom/shower
 Anne thought of two other things I might need to mention.  The all in one toilet room and shower.  You will notice that there is no tub or dividing wall separating the shower area (on the left) from the toilet area.  That means you have to be careful when sitting on the toilet after someone has showered – you might slip off!  Or worse yet – you don’t know what the fluid is on the toilet before you sit down.  J  But we have installed a shower curtain between the two that keeps the toilet mostly dry.  The other thing to notice is that there are two pipes in the room. (All pipes are exposed in China buildings – nothing is hidden in the walls.)  The pipe on the left is for hot water, the one on the right is for cold water.   But the hose going to the shower head is only attached to the hot water.  I’ve written about “Smaug” before, our on-demand, instant water heater, which is located in the kitchen.  Normally Anne gets in the shower before me.  (That way she can have more time to get beautiful in the morning – and – I have the privilege of using the squeegee to wipe down the walls and floors after my shower.)   Smaug is very sensitive, and it is hard to get the temperature just right.  On most mornings I hear, “It’s too hot!” or “Too Cold!”  It takes two or three adjustments to get it just right.  (The poor, single fellows above and below us in the apartments.  Who can set their water temperature??)  Actually they just leave it on the shower comfort setting and never readjust it daily for doing the dishes.  “What dishes?!”
 
And the other time consumer – the many hours each week we enjoy speaking to our kids and my mother (and occasionally other relatives) on the phone.  The connection doesn’t always work and there are frequent hang ups but we manage.

Side note - On our trips we were debating what gifts to get for our family.  This is what we decided:
Ties for the guys

Pearls for the girls

Squids for the kids!
We saw plenty in each category and ended up buying two of the three.  Now how to get those perishables home?

Anne and I are both teachers in the church primary.  She is also a counselor in the primary presidency.  We have the 4-6 year olds, 7 of ‘em, very high energy, not well disciplined, and class is held in a bedroom of an expat member.  My task is generally to keep the kids from fighting (by holding a couple of ‘em on my lap) and to make sure no blood is spilled during lesson time.  Anne generally prepares and gives the lesson.  (Did I mention we don’t have teaching materials or supplies, other than what can be taken from the internet?  Did I mention how much we love our internet?)  She also would be responsible for preparing/presenting the sharing time lesson a couple of times a month.  We take three different buses to get to church – about a 45+ minute trip each way.  I figure we spend 5 hours/week just going to, attending, and returning from church – this doesn’t include Anne’s lesson prep time.  Still, we are very glad to be able to have church here in China and a branch to meet with.  Members in some other cities only have the virtual (internet) branch.

We get two English speaking channels on our TV.  One is CCTV – the Chinese version of CNN in English.  The second is the Discovery Channel, which mainly shows only reruns over and over again.   Our internet is not stable enough to stream any shows.  We basically couldn’t/didn’t watch any TV until we had the semester break, and then we watch the DVD’s we purchased.  I doubt we’ll watch many of those once the new semester kicks in. 

We are grateful to be able to share this experience with the Hadds, the other BYU teacher couple.  We help each other out and do many things together.  We have tried to have some adventure discovering Chengdu or the surrounding area every week.  We go exploring on the buses or metro system to temples, parks, museums, etc.  Frequently these excursions occur on a Saturday.  We have also evolved into a standing Thursday evening, “I can’t stand to cook anymore; we are going out for a decent meal tonight.”  We take turns picking the place to eat.  It may be a Pizza Hutt, Peter’s Tex Mex, Grandma’s Kitchen, a noodle restaurant or a fairly good steakhouse nearby, etc.  We would be much more miserable if we had to go through this entire experience alone. 

I hope this little note gives you an idea of what our regular life in China is like – it is not all fun and games!  It is still a “Great Adventure”, but not everything about it is good.  I guess that is true of most things in life.