Friday, April 17, 2015

It's Not All Fun and Games!



I’m afraid someone may get the idea from reading our blog that all we are doing in China is taking trips, seeing new and exotic sites, and generally on a 1 year vacation.  The purpose of this entry is to dispel that idea.

While it is true that we have been on some marvelous trips and have seen some amazing things, we have also been working our tails off.  We want to take advantage while we are here in China of seeing and doing as much as we can since we are so close to the locations.  (Also, to reward ourselves for working so hard.)  But our normal workday is anything but exciting and exotic. 

Let me describe our typical work week from last semester.  I taught 7 different classes; two classes of Sophomore electrical engineering students and 5 classes of Master students.  Anne taught 5 classes; two classes of Soph EE students and 3 classes of PhD students.  Our graduate classes were generally limited to 50 students each, but Anne had one class with 80 PhD students – (because she is such a good teacher, they all wanted to come to her class!)  These are very bright people and we don’t want to short-change them with weak lessons.
View from  the back of the classroom
 We had to prepare three different lessons each week, two for the sophomores and one for the graduate students.  We actually taught the one class of sophomores twice a week – requiring the two lessons for them. The graduate students required a third, different lesson.  (The sophomores had better English skills than the graduates, so we couldn’t recycle undergraduate lessons with them.)  Preparing each lesson took around 10 hours each.  Oh – each class lesson was two hours long.  All of Anne’s classes and 5 of mine were on the new campus.  (3 of my graduate classes were on the old campus.)  We would easily spend 2.5+ hours on the bus round-trip for each day we taught.   Do the math – 30 hours preparation and (for me) 14 hours teaching.  Some of my classes were back-to-back, so I had to go to the new campus twice a week for 5 hours.  We are up to 50 hours so far.

Why does it take 10 hours for preparing each lesson?  Well, for one reason we have no manuals, so we have to find/create all our teaching materials from scratch.  Try doing that with an unstable internet with only “dial-up” speed.  There are some wonderful sites out there, but getting at them is challenging, especially with China’s computer firewall.  We try to prepare PowerPoint presentations to cover the material in the lesson.  This helps those students who may sit at the back of the room and can’t hear very well, or who just can’t understand our spoken English.  Their reading skills are generally better than their speaking skills.

Anne is a very a conscientious teacher and very good at preparing lessons.  I have borrowed several of her lessons; she has only wanted to borrow a couple of mine.  (What does that tell you?!)  But we still modify each other’s lesson to fit the way we present the material and include it with our other materials.

Basically, we find a topic we believe would be of interest to the graduate students and make a lesson out of it.  We review the topic and then get the students to discuss it amongst themselves (“pair, then share”) while we roam around the room, asking questions to stimulate more discussion and noting errors in speaking we can correct either then or at a later time (so as to not cause them to “lose face”).  As the semester went on, we could give immediate feedback rather than wait until another time because the students got to know and trust us.  We may then combine the groups and they have a different audience to discuss the topic with.  Finally, a few will be called on to present their opinions to the class.   
Discussing topic with a small group
 As an example of what we taught – for one lesson I discussed the Ebola virus and what was going on in the world at that time.  I downloaded some audio from the BBC and played it for the class.  Some of the discussion questions were, “Should experimental drugs to control the virus be given to humans?  If yes, who should get the limited drug? Old people who are ready to die anyway, young people who may have the ability to recover with the drug, or random people?  If no to human experimental testing, what other alternatives could be used?  Assume a case of Ebola was reported on campus – What should the school do to respond?  What should the government do?  What would you do?”  We had some very interesting discussions.  I was very surprised in one class where a girl stated that the first thing the government should do, before anything else, was to lock down news reports of the Ebola case.   

Anne had a very successful class where she reviewed the holidays in America, complete with pictures and descriptions of what people did on the holiday, what kind of foods they ate, special clothes they wore, etc.  Then she broke the class into small groups and asked them to invent a new holiday.  What would it celebrate, how would it be celebrated, who would be involved, any special foods or clothes, etc.?  The groups then reported on their new holiday to the class and a vote was taken as to which one was the most popular.  They had a fun time doing that.  The main goal is to get the students to talk in English as much as possible.

Our undergraduate students were a different matter.  Their class size was limited to 18 students because this is a premier program for the university.  In order to advance to the next year in the special program they are in, they must pass the International English Language Testing System (IELTS) with a score of 6 (out of 10).   (It is a joint program with the University of Glasgow – yes – in Scotland.)  We had to create lessons to help them be prepared for the test.  There is a lot of materials on the internet, but see my prior comments about the internet.  (Side note – we found the internet speed was better in the middle of the night, so we often got up during the night to download videos for class.)  Sadly, many of the students are not up to the 6.0 level yet.  The problem is that our class carried no credit or grade so most of the students didn’t bother to show up.  Still, if we had a student or two show up, we had to give them the lesson.  
 
Our kitchen and fridge
When we talked to the couple we replaced from last year, they said most of their time was spent on teaching related activities, similar to what we have found.  Their second biggest use of their time was for procuring and preparing food.  That surprised us, but now we understand why.  We were advised to always wash and peal all our fruits and vegetables.  (That’s one reason we like bananas and citrus fruits – they are always pealed anyway.)  There are a number of street vendors selling fresh fruit/vegetables, so they are not hard to get.  But not one location has everything we like.  For example, we have spoken about the “icky market”.   It is one location about a 15 minute walk away where we go to as a place of last resort.  Other, better locations are farther away.  It is a longer walk, or a 20+ minute bus ride each way there and back.  We have a very small refrigerator, and the fruit/veggies are ripe when purchased.  We have learned that we have to use them in a couple of days or they will spoil.  

Most of China’s bread is generally full of air – think of angel food cake without the sweet – not very substantial or satisfying.  (Trying to spread peanut butter on it totally destroys the bread!)  We have found one bread market that has a good, whole-grain loaf of bread (still small in size).  We get to the store on the 20+ minute bus ride.  Once again, we can’t store much, so we have to frequently go on shopping trips.  

Another reason for not storing much food (besides the small fridge and ripe fruits/veggies) is that the power to apartment frequently is turned off – or the electric breaker for the kitchen frequently trips when we are not here.  If we don’t notice it, or we are away from the apartment, the food will spoil.  (We have learned this from sad experience!)  We have some grocery stores (Walmart, Carrefour) for meat – chicken breasts and pork roasts.  (We use the crock pot we purchased a lot.)  But the produce at these large stores is not as fresh or good as from the street vendors.  We have also discovered various stores throughout Chengdu which offers some types of western food – cheese at one, maple syrup at another, canned beans at a third, etc.  None of them are close, they are very expensive, and we try to plan those visits over the weekend or on our days off.  

We get eggs at one store, bread at another, produce from a variety of stores, meat from a supermarket, etc.  It all takes time.  In other words, we have to shop at least every other day for something.  We try to combine trips, but each excursion can easily take a couple of hours.    Chalk up another 10 hours per week for just buying food.  This doesn’t include the cleaning and preparing meals.

Because of the air pollution in China, our apartment can get very dirty, even when we are not even here.  Dust just settles on everything from the air.  Our windows are not air-tight at all; we always have drafts leaking air.  We can easily spend several hours each week dusting, sweeping and mopping the floor.  We have a wood laminate floor – which shows all the dust bunnies that seem to multiple during the night.  Add to that the kitchenette and bathroomette where rusty pipes leave stains.  Cleaning is a never ending battle.  
Our washing machine
 We have a very small washing machine.  (Still, we are very glad to have a washing machine!)  We have to do a batch of laundry every other day, it seems.  One day lights, two days later we do the darks.  The machine is slow – think 1 hour per batch.  We have no dryer, so everything is hung up on hangers in our utility room to dry.  (We open the windows and I positioned a fan to blow on the clothes.)  That is why we were so excited to be in the fancy apartment after Christmas that had a dryer.  One reason we have to do laundry so often, other than the small washer size – we were limited by space and weight for what we could bring to China on the plane.  Anne is very tired of the old, unattractive clothes she brought and was happy to find some new ones in her size on our trips.  The old clothes are being retired and will be left here when we come home.
Our bathroom/shower
 Anne thought of two other things I might need to mention.  The all in one toilet room and shower.  You will notice that there is no tub or dividing wall separating the shower area (on the left) from the toilet area.  That means you have to be careful when sitting on the toilet after someone has showered – you might slip off!  Or worse yet – you don’t know what the fluid is on the toilet before you sit down.  J  But we have installed a shower curtain between the two that keeps the toilet mostly dry.  The other thing to notice is that there are two pipes in the room. (All pipes are exposed in China buildings – nothing is hidden in the walls.)  The pipe on the left is for hot water, the one on the right is for cold water.   But the hose going to the shower head is only attached to the hot water.  I’ve written about “Smaug” before, our on-demand, instant water heater, which is located in the kitchen.  Normally Anne gets in the shower before me.  (That way she can have more time to get beautiful in the morning – and – I have the privilege of using the squeegee to wipe down the walls and floors after my shower.)   Smaug is very sensitive, and it is hard to get the temperature just right.  On most mornings I hear, “It’s too hot!” or “Too Cold!”  It takes two or three adjustments to get it just right.  (The poor, single fellows above and below us in the apartments.  Who can set their water temperature??)  Actually they just leave it on the shower comfort setting and never readjust it daily for doing the dishes.  “What dishes?!”
 
And the other time consumer – the many hours each week we enjoy speaking to our kids and my mother (and occasionally other relatives) on the phone.  The connection doesn’t always work and there are frequent hang ups but we manage.

Side note - On our trips we were debating what gifts to get for our family.  This is what we decided:
Ties for the guys

Pearls for the girls

Squids for the kids!
We saw plenty in each category and ended up buying two of the three.  Now how to get those perishables home?

Anne and I are both teachers in the church primary.  She is also a counselor in the primary presidency.  We have the 4-6 year olds, 7 of ‘em, very high energy, not well disciplined, and class is held in a bedroom of an expat member.  My task is generally to keep the kids from fighting (by holding a couple of ‘em on my lap) and to make sure no blood is spilled during lesson time.  Anne generally prepares and gives the lesson.  (Did I mention we don’t have teaching materials or supplies, other than what can be taken from the internet?  Did I mention how much we love our internet?)  She also would be responsible for preparing/presenting the sharing time lesson a couple of times a month.  We take three different buses to get to church – about a 45+ minute trip each way.  I figure we spend 5 hours/week just going to, attending, and returning from church – this doesn’t include Anne’s lesson prep time.  Still, we are very glad to be able to have church here in China and a branch to meet with.  Members in some other cities only have the virtual (internet) branch.

We get two English speaking channels on our TV.  One is CCTV – the Chinese version of CNN in English.  The second is the Discovery Channel, which mainly shows only reruns over and over again.   Our internet is not stable enough to stream any shows.  We basically couldn’t/didn’t watch any TV until we had the semester break, and then we watch the DVD’s we purchased.  I doubt we’ll watch many of those once the new semester kicks in. 

We are grateful to be able to share this experience with the Hadds, the other BYU teacher couple.  We help each other out and do many things together.  We have tried to have some adventure discovering Chengdu or the surrounding area every week.  We go exploring on the buses or metro system to temples, parks, museums, etc.  Frequently these excursions occur on a Saturday.  We have also evolved into a standing Thursday evening, “I can’t stand to cook anymore; we are going out for a decent meal tonight.”  We take turns picking the place to eat.  It may be a Pizza Hutt, Peter’s Tex Mex, Grandma’s Kitchen, a noodle restaurant or a fairly good steakhouse nearby, etc.  We would be much more miserable if we had to go through this entire experience alone. 

I hope this little note gives you an idea of what our regular life in China is like – it is not all fun and games!  It is still a “Great Adventure”, but not everything about it is good.  I guess that is true of most things in life.



       

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Vietnam Vacation

02/08/2015     Marvelous Marvin, the tour promoter who caters to the BYU CTP teachers came on this one with us and even brought his wife and daughter.  Vietnam was actually done in two trips with Cambodia between the two cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Min City (Saigon).  We landed in Hanoi.  It took quite a while to get through the visa process.  We were all told to have extra pictures of us on our person when we arrived at the airport.  And you have to get the visa before you can pick up your luggage.  One couple forgot and left their pictures in their suitcase.  Luckily someone else had duplicates of themselves.  Marvin collected all the pictures in a pile (including the duplicates) and handed them over to the authorities.  I guess they didn't look at them closely, just counted to see if the number matched the number in our group, and let us through.   Our hotel was on a busy street corner.  There are lots of regular motorcycles here, rather than the quiet e-bikes we are used to in China.  I went out to exchange some money and came back with about two million in Vietnamese Dong (still under $100 USD).  WooHoo – I’m a Millionaire!!


OK hotel, OK breakfast.  Our first stop was the famous “Hanoi Hilton” (Hoa Lo Prison) where American POW’s were held during the Vietnam war.  Long before that the French built and ran it and put the Vietnamese rebels in there.  According to them, the French were very cruel and I suppose they were.  The walls in the rooms were painted black with tiny windows at the top.  No a/c or heating of course.  Prisoners were shackled to wooden platforms.  They even had a real guillotine on display that the French used on the rebels.  It was interesting to see their spin on the US/Vietnam war.  We were the imperialists trying to force our will on them - they were just trying to live their lives peacefully.  They had Senator John McCain’s flight suit on display from when they captured him.  One wall showed pictures of how they took such good care of the POWs and how happy the prisoners were.  Not.
We are millionaries!

Prison Cell Block

French Guillotine

Skinny Houses
The bus took us on a drive a couple of hours northeast of Hanoi.  We passed fields of rice in various stages of maturity.  We saw people with their conical straw hats, water buffalo, and family graves right in the middle of the fields.  The graves were elevated since they flood the rice fields.  They said if you bury your ancestors on your land, no one else will want to take your property from you.  We saw cows walking around on the streets unescorted.  Vietnam mostly exports rice and clothing.  Like China they are a communist government and the same religious restrictions apply.

The new detached houses that we saw were brightly painted (think pastel pink, blue, green) and ornamented on the front side and plain grey concrete on the sides.  They were tall and skinny, some three or more stories but only 12 feet wide at the most. They would have a shop on the bottom floor, the old parents lived on the first floor up, and the younger couple lived above that.  They might have a covered porch type living space on the very top.  Multi-generational housing!  We were given a pit stop half way to our destination.  It was at a place where people with handicaps make goods to sell to tourists and we bought some earrings.  We also stopped at a fresh water pearl farm but didn't buy anything from them.

We had a wonderful lunch on a boat (shrimp with the heads on, fried calamari, spring rolls, etc.) while we cruised around Ha Long Bay, another UNESCO World Heritage site.  Afterwards we stopped at a cave called the Thien Cung grotto (probably a little larger and prettier than Timpanogos cave in Utah) on an island and walked around inside.  Then we spent a couple of relaxing hours on the deck of the boat traveling slowly in and out of the green islets (there are over 5,000 of them of all shapes and sizes) jutting up out of the water and taking way too many pictures.  But it was beautiful – it has to be experienced to appreciate everything we saw!  We could imagine pirates knowing their way around and hiding when they needed to.  You could live out here and never be found!

This is the life!

Into the mists

An underwater mountain range!
From here we were taken to a decent hotel near Ha Long Bay – the internet worked.  WooHoo!  We went to a nice restaurant for a Vietnamese dinner of shrimp and spring rolls again, plus sweet and sour fish and watermelon for dessert.  We had a lot of watermelon for dessert throughout these countries.  Some of the teachers went out later for a foot massage and we walked to their night market.  They were very aggressive here and it was annoying so we didn't stay long.  We were tired and slept well.

02/10/2015     We were allowed to sleep in this morning.  The hotel served a lot of Asian foods (rice, noodles, and veggies for breakfast) but I had an omelet and watermelon.  We had a long bus ride back to the airport in Hanoi for our trip to Siam Reap, Cambodia (which I already wrote about so will move on the Ho Chi Min City).  On the way we watched a police chase from the bus.  Some guy tried to escape on a motorcycle.  He was riding a motorcycle the wrong way on the other side of the divided highway trying to get away from the cops.  He jumped off, crossed into our lanes, and tried to hop onto the back of another motorcyclist.  That didn't work so he ran into the bushes where the police caught him and started kicking and beating the heck out of him.  A teacher sitting on the front of the bus got the whole thing on video. 

02/14/2015     We were now in South Vietnam in Ho Chi Min City (formerly called Saigon) in a wonderful hotel, the Bong Sen – definitely a four star at least.  It served crisp bacon and real cheese at the breakfast buffet.  The country is trying to emerge but is still a third world country in some ways.  They don’t have all the high rise buildings like China does.   The same type of raised tombs on the family farms were here.  They don’t have public graveyards and don’t believe in cremation so they bury their dead on their own property – keeps it in the family.  The body is buried underground but the tomb is built over them to keep people from walking on their graves – bad karma. 
We were driven a ways out of the city, put on a boat, (there were 27 of us including Marvin’s family), given a coconut drink, and taken on a part of the Mekong Delta to an island village, My Tho, where they process coconut and honey bee products.  A large python was brought out in case anyone wanted to hold it, so Anne went first.  Next we were put in donkey carts for a tour around the island and finally on a Vietnamese rowing boats for a trip up a small murky green canal.  It was kind of like the River Cruise at Disneyland except the shacks, people and animals were real.

Donkey cart ride with the Hadds

Anne holding a python
Our boat rower on the Delta
We ate a nice lunch somewhere but I can’t remember since our vacation was all running together at this point.  But dinner was memorable.  It was after dark on a small cruise ship that went up and down the Saigon River.  There was a little bit of entertainment in the form of a one stringed instrument called a Dan Bau and some dancing.  The weather was lovely, and there was a nice breeze on deck – very peaceful.  A great Valentines Day activity! 

And then we went to their night market.  I've never seen anything so crazy.   It’s right off a traffic circle that has about 8 different streets coming into it with no traffic lights.  It was the beginning of the Chinese New Year celebrations and everyone and their relative must have been in town.  They would put four or five people, babies included,  on a motorcycle and drive around to see and be seen crowding all the streets.  Imagine those videos of army ants on the move, multiply that by 1000, and you might get the picture.  The night market was off one of the streets and motorcycles were riding up and down it between the stalls and shoppers.  We felt like we were taking our life in our hands trying to cross all those streets and walk back to our hotel.  

Dinner cruise on the Saigon River

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) at night

02/15/2015     It was Sunday and we went to church only it was at the Catholic Notre-Dame Cathedral (a strong French influence is still here.)  All the building materials came from France.  We participated in their song practice before the worship service.  There were sure a lot more people in there than we've ever seen in a European cathedral.  Across the street was the old Post Office painted bright yellow with white trim built in the French architecture style.  Inside it now was a bank, some shops, and it still had working telephone booths.  Down the street was the building (“secret” CIA headquarters) where the US helicoptered people out from the roof top when Saigon fell in the Vietnam war. 

Catholic Church

Old Post Office
CIA Building of air lift fame - 1975

Now in 2015
Next stop was the War Remnants Museum.  On the outside they had a collection of equipment that the US left behind when they fled the country:  tanks, planes, hueys, etc.  The inside was dedicated to exhibits of war crimes committed by foreign (read U.S.) countries, "correcting" historical truths, effects of Agent Orange, and international protests against the war.  Most of the men in our tour group were of draft age during the Vietnam War and one of them was here at that time.  It was interesting reading about the war from someone else’s point of view, although I know there are always atrocities committed on both sides of a war.  Outside was also a mock up of a prison environment with a “tiger cage” imprisonment device and another guillotine. 

Some things we left behind

Tiger Cages for prisoners

Example of a child safety seat - plus air masks

We were all given a choice of where to be dropped off for lunch.  The  majority had their fill of really good, but Asian, food so we ate at Burger King – it tasted so good!  We were given the afternoon off and we walked around the Saigon Square shopping plaza.  Maybe it is just for the Asian New Year (Tet) celebration but many of the women were wearing colorful traditional Vietnamese outfits:  silk pants covered by long sleeved, high necked tight dresses, slit up to the waist.  Our guide said a famous saying is that their clothing “covers everything but hides nothing”.  We ate pizza for dinner and met back at our hotel for the evening’s activity. 

It was the last night of our vacation and thank goodness it was a lot of fun!  First we were taken to a unique art form called the Vietnamese Water Puppet Show.  It was held in a small theater with a large water feature (pool) in front of the curtain of a stage.  Six musicians, three on each side, played traditional musical instruments while also voicing the parts of the puppets in high, sing-song voices.  You could not see the puppeteers because they were behind the curtain, but also in the water.  The puppets of animals, dragons, people and boats were about two feet tall and were mounted on long underwater poles.  The puppets were pushed through the curtains and moved around in the pool while the story was told, all in Vietnamese, but we got the idea.  It lasted about an hour and was really different and certainly entertaining.  You can see videos on line.

As we exited the theater our guide told us to walk across the street where we were put on our Cyclos.  These are three-wheeled bikes with two in the front and one in the back.  The driver sits in the back and cycles and you sit up front in a chair.  They had one for each of us and we took off in a group for a one hour tour around the city at night.  I have some video of it because you just can’t imagine it.  The city is full of visitors and decorated to the n-th degree with lights and flowers.  Picture traffic of all kinds on the streets including cars, buses, trucks, motorcycles, taxis…and us, all blending together, with no traffic control.  Talk about having your life flash before your eyes!  It was the best $10 spent ever.  It was more dangerous, more fun and lasted longer than any ride in an amusement park.  A motorcycle crashed into the side of one of the teachers in our group.  They had to disentangle things.  No one was hurt, it just added to the excitement.  The lights and the flowers were beautiful, there was a nice breeze, so except for the life threatening parts, it was quite peaceful.  A great way to end the trip.  And that, dear readers, is what we did for our winter vacation.

Water puppet show

Clyde on a "Cyclo"

All kinds of traffic - plus us!

02/16/2015     Monday we all flew back to Guangzhou and from there to our separate cities.  We spent all day traveling by one means or another and returned to our humble apartment that evening.  The school had been making changes to our electrical usage reporting system for our apartments while we were away.  The power had been turned off and all the food in our fridge/freezer ruined.  We spent the next day throwing everything out, scrubbing out the mold, and buying new food.  With the new system, the school will now pay a little each month towards our power usage and we need to pay for anything over.  That will sure be a problem for me with the A/C in the summer.
 
A synopsis of our trip:  Including the time we were staying in the Mitchell’s high-rise apartment in Raffle’s City, to landing back in China, we have been away from our school apartment for about two months.  Anne hadn't seen a squat potty or had to provide her own toilet paper that entire time.  We loved HK – a mix of old world European, South Sea Island and modern high society.  I've haven’t seen so many fancy cars in one location.  Not just Mercedes and Porsche but Rolls Royce and Lamborghini.  And of course it had a “real” temple.

I'd hate to be an electrician and need to trace a line!

Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam kind of all roll into one.  They are beautiful looking people, kind of a blend from India and China.  Those we saw were all small in stature and slender, no one was over weight.  I know we were mostly in the tourist spots but many spoke English.  They each have a history of thousands of years of wars and bad rulers. Their countries are trying to modernize but still have a long way to go.  In each place we saw draped across the streets bundles of electrical wires tied in knots.  Opening their countries up to foreign tourists’ dollars is a good way to go.  We had good weather everywhere we went, mostly because this is the dry season.  I loved seeing some clear skies and the moon and stars at night.  We rarely see that at all in China. 



We loved traveling with our fellow BYU CTP teachers.  We shared stories, good and bad, of how we have it here.  They are really great people and we have become good friends with several of them.  Some have heavier teaching schedules, some have maids.  Some are treated very well by their administration and some………….you can fill in that blank.  And isn’t it nice to be with people you know won’t light up a cigarette or get drunk?  We lived out of our suitcases for three weeks.  They got heavier with each country we passed through with the items we bought, and we finally had to purchase another backpack.  We did laundry in our hotel sinks when we could and only sent out the laundry in HK.  While it was great fun to travel it was also tiring.  We’d get up early and stay out late.  Internet service and/or time to use it was hard to find.  We are so fortunate to be able to have had these eye opening travels, to see beautiful and mysterious parts of this world and its people.  And now that this little adventure is over, our one great big adventure will come to pass all the sooner.