Thursday, February 26, 2015

Thailand Vacation

02/02/2015    We rate hotels by their breakfast buffets and this one in Bangkok was pretty good.  But the internet was not so good.  And then some bomb went off a few blocks away the night before.  Oh, well, rebels and all that.  Our guide called herself “Ten”, which is probably much better than calling yourself a "Two".  :-) The first stop was the Royal Grand Palace from the 18th century kingdom of Siam.  Remember “The King and I”?  The real story took place here.  Unlike simple, classic Greek architecture, every doodah, curvy, pointed building and temple on the compound was decorated inside and out with either tiny ceramic or mirrored tiles or gold leaf, or carvings.  There was no surface that was not covered.  And thousands of Buddhas everywhere.  Why do they have to have so many – can’t just one do? 
Look at the elaborate roof lines!

Gold Leaf Temple
Mosaic tiles on the walls
Every surface is covered or carved
One of the temples (Wat Pho) held a very large reclining Buddha inside and ancient plaques depicting how to give a Thai massage.  They consider it their first medical university.  We ate a great lunch on a docked boat.  Anne reports it did have western style toilets, but when flushed, air came up out of the others (along with a spray of whatever else was in your toilet bowl).  Afterwards we hopped on a smaller skiff that took us on a tour of the canals of the Chao Praya River (they call it the Oriental Venice).  We were let off for a while to climb the temple along the riverside called Wat Arun, part of which was being restored.  That evening we were treated to dinner and a show.  The Thai food was great but some of our teachers actually fell asleep during the show.  It featured highly painted, exotically costumed dancers performing traditional Thai dances.  Basically they strike a pose, then move very slowly, then strike another pose.  The makeup was so heavy and they are such beautiful people that we were half way through the show before we realized one dancer was a man.  And he was playing a male role – took us that long to figure it out.  They were the ones with shoulder pads.  And they can really bend their fingers backwards. 
Toes of the reclining Buddha

Elaborate roof lines at Wat Arun


S - L - O - W Dancing  (guys are on each end)
02/03/2015     Today is Leanna’s Birthday – what a happy day when she entered our lives!  We are so glad we got to spend some time with her last week.  Today we were taken to the Dangerous Market.  It is an “icky” market like we are used to only this one is set up over a railroad track.  A train goes right through it 8 times a day (and has for the past 30 years).  The shop owners barely pull in their awnings and move their tables to just allow for the train’s size as it passes and then set up shop again.  It’s an unlucky tourist who stays too long to seal the bargain.  We were told there are several deaths each year from the train.  After that we were taken a long ways out to the Floating Market.  We’ve been here before on our way back from New Zealand.  While there are shops all along the waterway, people also go up and down in long skinny boats, selling their wares.  Anne was thrilled to find a pair of simple sandals in her size for when the weather heats up.  That night several people, including Clyde, went out for an authentic Thai massage.  Five of us went for the massage, two guys and three ladies.  They stared by washing our feet with a salt rub and warm water, very relaxing.   Then we were each taken to a separate, curtained stall and were given some pajamas to change into.  After we had changed, the workers pulled the dividing curtains back and the five of us were lying next to each other on thin mats.  The lights were low and soft music was playing.  The lady who worked on me was small.  They start with your feet and legs.  The motion they used was like kneading bread.  She used her hands and elbows when working on me.  They started gentle but got more intense as they progressed.  They worked on my feet, legs and then my hands, arms, shoulders.  They even did a scalp massage on me.  I rolled over on my stomach and she worked on my back; this is where her feet got into the action – walking up my spine!  I sat up and she worked some more on my back and tried to twist me certain ways.  I guess I’m pretty stiff, because I started to laugh and told her I don’t bend that way.  After the 90 minutes were up, I was very relaxed, but my lady had had a good workout. 
The Dangerous Market

The Floating Market
 While in Bangkok we had the privilege of visiting the bridge made famous in the movie “The Bridge Over the River Kwai”.  It is based on a true story where US service men (and other Japanese prisoners of war) during WWII were forced to work on the Thailand-Burma railway.  But we were told that the movie version wasn’t exactly how it happened – who would have guessed!  Afterwards we visited a museum dedicated to the story of the railway and the POWs.  It was very well done and we wished we had more time to study all the displays.  It was very sobering.  I think there is a movie out about it now called “The Railway Man” with Colin Firth.  Approximately half of the 700 US POWs there died working on the railway.

Bridge over the River Kwai
02/04/2015     Today we caught an early flight to Chiang Mai in the northern part of Thailand.  From the airport we were taken to the hotel but it was still too early to check in so we left our luggage in the lobby.  The tour guide for this city took us to a really lame museum about the city.  The bottom floor was closed, the top floor was undergoing renovations so we couldn’t go there.  The ground floor had a few relics but no signs or descriptions in English.  We were supposed to be given lunch but the guide had failed to plan that one so we were each given a few coins and told to fend for ourselves.  Our next planned activity wouldn’t be until lunch the next day.  We were not a happy bunch.  Maybe we could have used some free time at the end when we knew our way around, but we had just arrived.  Some of our group took naps, some women got their nails done, and we unpacked.  It was maybe a little less than 3 start hotel – tile floors instead of carpet (nosier) and bad internet connections.  We ate Pad Thai noodles from a street vendor for lunch and dinner.  Clyde got a little uncomfortable after the second round because of some peppers he put in his dinner. 

02/05/2015    With no plans for the morning we slept in and we ate the adequate buffet breakfast.  For 20 Baht each we took what can only be described as a “paddy wagon” (a small covered red pickup truck with two bench seats in the back) to the walls of the old town.  We walked through a couple of temples.  One place let us ring their giant gong.  Awesome.  Running out of time we decided to hire a tuk-tuk to take us to three more temples and then back to our hotel.  Five of the other BYU teachers had signed up on their own to pay for and take a Thai cooking class that morning.  Since they were going to eat what they cooked they didn’t come back for the lunch that was included in the tour. 

Banging on a Big Gong

A dragon being eaten - or emerging?

Night Market
We all met in the afternoon and were driven to a place in the mountains that the royalty used for a summer home (but they are too old now).  It is called Phuping (sometimes spelled Bhuping) Palace, but is pronounced “pooping”.  We all had to come up with a few jokes about that as we walked around the lovely flower gardens.  After that we were driven to the Phrathat Doi Suthep – a gold domed Buddhist temple.  We took a cable car up to the mountain top but a 306 step dragon-headed serpent staircase down.  Once again – lots of Buddhas.  One of the “treasure rooms” reminded me of something out of an Indiana Jones movie.  For dinner we had Thai food at a lovely outdoor riverside restaurant.  Chiang Mai has a very nice Night Market – much quieter and more organized than HK.  Our hotel had a free shuttle bus to and from so we gave it a try.

At the "Pooping" Palace

Clear skies and bright gold buildings

The Serpent Staircase
02/06/2015     Today was Elephant Camp.  There are preserves in the hills that take in old or wounded (think land mines) elephants.  They also raise and train others.  The entry fees help go towards those efforts.  We were first taken by ox cart to an old village.  We each got a turn to drive the cart.  On the way we purchased banana bunches and sugar cane to feed the elephants.  While we were waiting for our turn we saw truck loads of soldiers on manuers marching around the hills and doing target practice.  Two people at a time were positioined in a box on the elephant’s back while a driver sat on its head.  We were taken up and down hills and through a river to the elephant training camp.  Here they showed us elephants doing tricks like dancing, playing with balls (basketball and soccer) and watercolor painting.  They were really good at painting scenes of trees, flowers, other elephants, and then signing their names.  These painting were later sold to tourists.

Driving an Ox Cart

Riding an Elephant

A painting Elephant
We ate lunch at the camp and then were taken on a bamboo raft trip on the Mae Taeng River.  We had a guide at the front and one at the back, each with a pole to move us along.  They let us take turns using the pole.  It was very peaceful.  From here we were taken to a nearby refugee of sorts camp called the Long Neck Village.  This group of people fled Myanmar and now live off tourist money selling crafts.  The women start wearing neck rings at age five and add more as they get older.  Some say it is for beauty or cultural identity and others say it was started to protect women from tiger bites to the neck.  Whatever.  They let the ladies try on some modified ones and they were extremely heavy.  It actually depresses down their clavical and shoulders and they end up with really weak neck muscles.  We visited an orchard farm where they are grown on a hanging rack without dirt (like at Epcot Land exhibit).  The roots are watered twice a day and sprayed with a liquid fertilizer once a week.  When we were told we’d be going to a cultural center for dinner and a show we all groaned a little thinking it would be slow dancing again.  And it was but they also included a knife balancing act that livened things up a little.    

Riding the River 

Anne as a Long-Neck

Knife balancing act
02/07/2015     We had to check out at 5:15am.  We loved Thailand and would like to go back and visit the beaches there sometime.  Since we were too early for the buffet breakfast we were handed a boxed breakfast.  Wonderful Thai airlines again so Anne was able to watch two movies:  “The Good Lie”, and “The 100 Step Journey” and liked them both.  We were flying back to China to meet up with another set of BYU teachers to continue on with the next planned tour – to Vietnam and Cambodia.  We landed in HK, took the express train back to Kowloon station, a bus to the train station, and then a train to Guangzhou, and the subway to the hotel.  We were very tired and slept well.  

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